A heat pump looks almost identical to a central air conditioner from the outside, but it does double duty. In summer it moves heat out of your house, and in winter it reverses and moves heat in. In a climate like Central Texas, with long cooling seasons and relatively short heating seasons, heat pumps are a common and sensible choice for many homes. This page explains how they work, what tends to go wrong, and how to think about installing one. Requests submitted here go to an independent HVAC contractor licensed by the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation (TDLR). We are a referral service and do not perform the work.
How a heat pump works
Every air conditioner moves heat with refrigerant. A heat pump adds a reversing valve so the same refrigerant circuit can run in either direction. In heating mode, the outdoor coil absorbs heat from outdoor air (there is usable heat in the air even when it's cold) and the indoor coil releases it into your ducts.
Because it moves heat rather than creating it, a heat pump can deliver much more heat energy than the electrical energy it consumes, especially in moderate weather. That's the main advantage over electric resistance heat strips, which convert electricity to heat one-for-one.
Most heat pump systems also include auxiliary or emergency heat, usually electric strips in the air handler. These kick in during defrost cycles, on very cold mornings, or when the thermostat asks for a big jump in temperature. They're useful, but costly to run for long periods.
Is a heat pump a good fit?
Things to consider:
- Your current heating fuel. If you have electric heat strips today, a heat pump will usually cut heating energy use substantially. If you have natural gas, the comparison depends on local gas and electric rates.
- Cold snaps. Standard heat pumps lose capacity as outdoor temperatures drop. Central Texas winters are mostly mild, but hard freezes do happen. Many installers pair a heat pump with backup heat strips, or with a gas furnace in a "dual fuel" setup that switches to gas below a set outdoor temperature. Cold-climate heat pumps hold capacity better in very low temperatures.
- Ductwork. A ducted heat pump uses the same ducts as a central AC. Homes or additions without ducts may suit ductless mini-split heat pumps.
- Electrical service. Converting from gas heat may require electrical work for the air handler's heat strips.
Efficiency ratings: SEER2 and HSPF2
Heat pumps carry two efficiency ratings under the Department of Energy's current test procedure, in effect since January 1, 2023:
- SEER2 for cooling efficiency.
- HSPF2 for heating efficiency.
Higher numbers mean better efficiency. Variable-speed (inverter) heat pumps generally have the highest ratings and can run at low output for long periods, which helps comfort and humidity control. Ask for the AHRI certificate for the exact indoor and outdoor combination quoted, since ratings only apply to matched systems.
Common heat pump problems
- Not heating, blowing cool air. In heating mode, heat pump supply air often feels lukewarm compared with a furnace. That's normal. Truly cool air in heat mode can point to a stuck reversing valve, low refrigerant, or a control problem.
- Ice on the outdoor unit. Light frost in cold, damp weather is normal, and the unit should periodically run a defrost cycle (you may see steam and hear a whoosh). Heavy ice that never clears suggests a defrost control, sensor or airflow problem.
- Running constantly in cold weather. Some long run time is normal when it's cold. If the auxiliary heat light is on all the time or bills spike, have the system checked.
- Not cooling in summer. The same issues as any AC: capacitors, contactors, refrigerant leaks, dirty coils, and drain problems. See our AC repair page.
- Thermostat setup problems. Heat pumps need a thermostat configured for heat pump operation, with the reversing valve and auxiliary heat staged properly. A thermostat set up for a gas furnace can cause odd behavior.
Safe homeowner checks
- Replace the air filter.
- Make sure the thermostat is set to heat pump mode (if it has a setting) and isn't stuck on Emergency Heat.
- Keep the outdoor unit clear of leaves, debris and anything that blocks airflow. In winter, don't chip ice off the coil, since that can damage the fins.
- Check breakers for both the outdoor unit and the indoor air handler or heat strips.
Leave refrigerant and electrical work to the licensed contractor. Handling refrigerant requires EPA Section 608 certification.
Installation: what to look for
Most of the advice on our AC installation page applies here, with a few heat-pump-specific points:
- Sizing. Ask for a Manual J load calculation covering both heating and cooling loads. In Central Texas, cooling usually drives the size, but heating capacity at low temperatures still matters.
- Balance point and backup heat. Ask the contractor what outdoor temperature the heat pump alone can keep up to, and how backup heat is staged.
- Refrigerant. New systems are transitioning to lower-GWP refrigerants such as R-454B and R-32 under the EPA's AIM Act rules.
- Outdoor placement. Heat pumps need drainage around the outdoor unit because defrost cycles shed water. A pad or stand that keeps the unit above standing water and ice helps.
- Permits. Many cities require a mechanical permit. Our town pages list the permitting offices we could identify.
Rebates and incentives
Some local electric utilities have run rebate programs for qualifying heat pumps. Rules and funding change. For example, Oncor's site said its 2026 residential incentive funding was fully committed. Check the current status with your electric provider before you buy. The federal 25C tax credit that applied to many heat pumps was ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025. Ask a tax professional about your situation.
Lifespan and maintenance
Because a heat pump runs year-round, it accumulates more operating hours than an air conditioner that sits idle all winter. Twice-yearly maintenance, once before cooling season and once before heating season, is a common recommendation. It includes cleaning coils, checking refrigerant charge and electrical parts, and testing the reversing valve and defrost operation.
How a request works
- Tell us your town and whether you need a repair, a replacement, or a quote for converting from another system.
- We forward the request to an independent, licensed and insured HVAC contractor that serves your area.
- The contractor contacts you directly. Any agreement for work is between you and that contractor.
There's no charge to homeowners, and we don't set the contractor's prices.
Heat Pump Installation & Replacement FAQs
Is a heat pump a good choice in Central Texas?
Mild winters suit heat pumps well, and they cool just like an AC. Compare operating costs with your actual gas and electric rates if you have gas.
Will my existing ducts work with a heat pump?
Usually, but heat pumps can need more airflow in heating mode than a furnace. A contractor should check duct sizing.
What is dual fuel?
A heat pump paired with a gas furnace. The heat pump handles most heating, and the furnace takes over in colder weather.
Are there tax credits or rebates?
Federal credits and utility rebates have changed over time, and eligibility rules apply. Check current terms with the IRS and your electric provider, such as PEC, before you buy.
Do heat pumps work in a hard freeze?
Modern heat pumps keep working in freezing weather but lose capacity, so backup heat strips or a furnace usually help in rare deep freezes.